3rd August what’s the story in Ballamory

Difficulty loading photos last night and it kept republishing blog each time it failed. Weak signal again so I’ll only risk one photo again tonight.

Last night was a rowdy night in the pub, it was so busy and I eventually found out why. It was the Rector’s leaving do, just love that.

Awake early, this time it’s Herring gulls doing the alarm call. A very heavy dew and the tent is soaked. I packed all the inside of the tent away. Had some breakfast and waited for the tent to dry a little.

While I was waiting I had a chat with Jaime. He was packing away on his motorbike and was heading for Skye and then some more Scottish islands. He said ‘ Don’t you get frustrated stopping to take photographs?’ I had to think, definitely no. My frustration is the camera can’t catch what I’m seeing or the emotion you are feeling at the time. The only time I might not stop is on a steep climb when I’m in the rhythm or it would be difficult to start again. His wife is a keen cyclist and he photos my bike and gear, amazed at what I’m carrying. But as we know you can have four seasons in one day here. I finally leave 8.30 later than I wanted.

I knew the ride to Oban was hilly with two or three 5 mile climbs. Lovely scenery to take your mind off things. The first 20 miles are ok, but the cafe stop with fantastic views to the sea does not open until 11. It’s 10.20 so my water bottle and cakes appear from Sally’s Tupperware box and I sit and use their benches. I’ll get a drink at the next village.

The next village appears with adverts for their cafe on the roadside. I pull up and the cafe above the shop is closed until the 5th. A bit of milk and a sausage roll disappear and it’s on again to Oban.

This 20 miles was tough. I’m not feeling it as much today and struggle on some of the steeper sections , double figure %, on the longer climbs. The last one beats me and I have to push for a 100 yards or so. Into Oban and make the ferry with plenty of time to spare.

On the ferry I meet a lovely family who were bird watching, seal watching. I spotted a seal and was immediately awarded 20 points. Not sure what prizes these points made. Razorbills and guillemots were thought to be too common. I saw a small black bird skimming the water, then 2 more. I’m not totally sure what they were but my guess would be a type of petrel. I’ve got back up trying to work out what they might be.

I leave the ferry and ask in the information centre where I might sea certain wildlife on my route to Tobermory. I get to the first site st the golf course and Phil, Andrew and Thomas ( the family from the ferry) tell me there is a white tailed sea eagle sitting in a tree. They lend me their binoculars and their it is. Within 1 mile of the ferry. I thank them and they move off and I start to pedal again. 300 yards later I see a large shape over the water above a fish farm and then I see the family again beckoning me again. They had seen it on the shore and it took off. It’s majestic as it circles, a 9 foot wingspan and that big white fan tail. Perfect. Thomas in the mean time has caught a grasshopper. Lovely to see a family enjoying nature.

The next challenge was to try and see an otter. A slow ride along the coast checking but to no avail. A sign says 76 otters killed on a certain section of the road. I do see seals and golden eye, lots of herons and geese.

The last two climbs into Tobermory are on single track road and I have to keep stopping in passing places to let cars go by. It is surprisingly busy.

The campsite in Tobermory is ….

Up another hill and a mile outside of the town. Angus sorts me out and we talk about the wildlife. He tells me of some visitors last week telling him he had more grass on his site than the whole area they lived in. They saw a toad for the first time and were fascinated, taking lots of photographs.

I set up camp and walk into town for a meal. What is the story in Ballamory? The Inn I had used previously on the harbour has had a fire and is boarded up. I find another pub.

Local smoked trout, venison casserole and sticky toffee pudding soon disappear (£17 total, what a bargain). I spy the whiskey section. They have my favourite of Glengoyne and I’m about to reach the 3rd cardinal point in the morning so it’s an early celebration:) a long uphill walk back to the campsite. The ferry doesn’t leave until 9.30 tomorrow as it’s Sunday so I can have a lay in.

70 miles today. 75 miles yesterday.