You are aware one of my cycling mates asked for more sex in the blog, this title might suggest that. However to my non cycling friends to bonk on a bike is to run out of energy big time. This happened today but more later.
Last night I sat in the campers open shelter and made a warm drink and was joined by Gavin and Sarah. These are hardcore walkers who wild camp for weeks at a time. We swap stories but when they say the time that it was pitch black, setting up an emergency camp and they find 34 ticks on Gavin and 16 on Sarah it makes me think I’m a more sedate adventurer. Sarah suffered with Limes disease after this. They are getting up the same time as me with a 14 mile off the beaten track coastal walk to do.
Neil sends me a weather update. Heavy rain in the morning clearing after 10. The first part is right. I awake to pack away to get the 9.30 ferry but it is tipping it down. I clear and pack the inside of the tent and load up Genevieve in the campers shelter. It buckets down even more. I have breakfast and wait, I’ll get the 11 o’clock ferry. 10.30 and it is still heaving it down, maybe the 1 o’clock then.
At 10.45 it does start to slacken off and I quickly take my chance and pack away a sodden tent. Gavin and Sarah are still there so I’m not the only one waiting it out. I say my goodbyes to them and Angus the owner and head back down the hill into Tobermory.
I have an hour to wait so nip into a cafe. Local smoked salmon, scrambled egg and toast ordered. I meet Murdoch and Andy who are cycling the islands. They are debating whether to go to Ardnermurchan as the weather is still not good. Andy is riding a Genesis bike and is a keen golfer so lots to talk about.
At this point I share my table with Joe and Will, originally from Bury St Edmund. Joe has a mate who rode a tandem with a skeleton on the back from Lands End to John O Groats. Trying to beat the world record distance for tandem ride with skeleton. One for Steve Eggleton to consider beating ( He’s just bought a tandem).
I catch the Ferry and as I am about to board I see Murdoch and Andy have decided to make the trip as well. It’s getting warmer and it’s dry but the sky is ominous.
After landing I say goodbye as I’m turning left to Ardnermurchan lighthouse. In my mind it was only a mile and a half from the ferry. 2 miles in I see the sign for the lighthouse6 miles, gulp! It is very up and down and road conditions are poor so you can’t make the most of the downhill to help with the uphill. Gradients are all 8 or 9 percent up, hard work. It is incredibly wild and desolate and I feel totally on my own. I love it, with hundreds of meadow pippets and a stonechat to keep me company and sheep. Very different from the Eastern most point.
I get to the lighthouse and feel a little cheated as there are lots of cars in the car park and the cafe is busy. I hear this conversation with a child and Dad.
‘ I don’t want to go and see the building!
It’s only bricks.
It’s only bricks with a light on.
It’s nothing special. ‘
I’ve ridden the best part of 1200 miles to be there, it is special to me.
I head to the lighthouse And Ian, with his son and Alistair McCloud his Dad take my photo. They quiz me about my journey and realise the significance of the photo to me. They disappear and I’m left on my own around the lighthouse. This is more like it!!!
I start to retrace my route which is unusual on this trip. One of the reasons I enjoy these adventures is riding from place to place. At home all rides have to be a loop.
2 miles later I have stopped, not just because of the steepness of the hill but because 20+ red deer have appeared on the horizon. Rob rides up on a Genesis. A good day for Genesis bikes. He is touring but credit card style so only a very small seat pack on his bike. He knows the area and tells me it is 20 very tough miles to Salen but an incredibly beautiful ride. He is spot on on both accounts.
Mountainous views, sea views,forest the route has it all. It also has hills and more hills. It starts to rain again. Thinking back now I don’t think I drank enough on this part of the ride. 2 miles from Salen and I have bonked!!! Legs feel weak and my vision is a little all over the place. A quick drink, one more climb and I make it to a hotel/ bar in Salen. It has stunning views across the sea and surrounding hills. I order chicken and haggis, it is beautifully presented and incredibly tasty but I could have eaten three of them. The beer goes down well though. Some guys at the bar are talking Merlin engines and about Guy Martin. I share my experience of the Royal Enfield earlier in this trip. The sticky toffee pudding is sensational.
The manager comes in and we start talking. Jonnie asks Where am I heading tonight? I say and he gives me a weather update, heavy rain and storms very soon. I talk nicely with him and because of the meal I’ve had and I will stay having some beers I can stay on site. What a result and Genevieve has a garage for the night. I get set up and the heavens open big time once again. I’m sitting warm and dry in the bar, beer in hand, some WiFi so I can write this. A good decision to stop. Thanks for all the support and advice on FB, I can hopefully make up a little extra tomorrow. I’m still well ahead of where I thought I might be so it’s not an issue.
Here’s hoping for better weather in the morning. I’m off to look where I might stop tomorrow now. Sleep well, I know I will I’m shattered but what a stunning view.
Four Cardinal Points LEJOG 2019 Paul Andrew 